Breaking Wave Formula:
From: | To: |
The Breaking Wave formula calculates the breaker index (ξ) which determines when a wave will break based on beach slope, wave height, and deep-water wavelength. It's a critical parameter in coastal engineering and wave dynamics.
The calculator uses the Breaking Wave formula:
Where:
Explanation: The formula relates beach characteristics to wave properties to determine when wave breaking occurs.
Details: Accurate breaking wave calculation is crucial for coastal engineering, beach erosion studies, surf forecasting, and designing coastal structures.
Tips: Enter beach slope in radians, wave height in meters, and deep-water wavelength in meters. All values must be positive numbers.
Q1: What is a typical range for breaker index values?
A: Breaker index values typically range from 0.4 to 1.2, with lower values indicating spilling breakers and higher values indicating plunging or surging breakers.
Q2: How does beach slope affect wave breaking?
A: Steeper beach slopes generally result in higher breaker indices, causing waves to break more suddenly and closer to shore.
Q3: What are the limitations of this formula?
A: The formula assumes regular wave conditions and may not accurately predict breaking under complex coastal configurations or irregular wave patterns.
Q4: How is deep-water wavelength determined?
A: Deep-water wavelength can be calculated from wave period using the formula λo = gT²/2π, where g is gravity and T is wave period.
Q5: Can this formula be used for all beach types?
A: While generally applicable, the formula works best for sandy beaches with relatively uniform slopes and may require adjustments for rocky or complex shorelines.