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Breaking Wave Given Wave Height At Breaking Point Calculator

Breaking Wave Formula:

\[ \xi = \frac{\beta}{\sqrt{H_w/\lambda_o}} \]

Radians
Meters
Meters

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1. What is the Breaking Wave Formula?

The Breaking Wave formula calculates the breaker index (ξ) which determines when a wave will break based on beach slope, wave height, and deep-water wavelength. It's a critical parameter in coastal engineering and wave dynamics.

2. How Does the Calculator Work?

The calculator uses the Breaking Wave formula:

\[ \xi = \frac{\beta}{\sqrt{H_w/\lambda_o}} \]

Where:

Explanation: The formula relates beach characteristics to wave properties to determine when wave breaking occurs.

3. Importance of Breaking Wave Calculation

Details: Accurate breaking wave calculation is crucial for coastal engineering, beach erosion studies, surf forecasting, and designing coastal structures.

4. Using the Calculator

Tips: Enter beach slope in radians, wave height in meters, and deep-water wavelength in meters. All values must be positive numbers.

5. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: What is a typical range for breaker index values?
A: Breaker index values typically range from 0.4 to 1.2, with lower values indicating spilling breakers and higher values indicating plunging or surging breakers.

Q2: How does beach slope affect wave breaking?
A: Steeper beach slopes generally result in higher breaker indices, causing waves to break more suddenly and closer to shore.

Q3: What are the limitations of this formula?
A: The formula assumes regular wave conditions and may not accurately predict breaking under complex coastal configurations or irregular wave patterns.

Q4: How is deep-water wavelength determined?
A: Deep-water wavelength can be calculated from wave period using the formula λo = gT²/2π, where g is gravity and T is wave period.

Q5: Can this formula be used for all beach types?
A: While generally applicable, the formula works best for sandy beaches with relatively uniform slopes and may require adjustments for rocky or complex shorelines.

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