Deepwater Wave Height For Shoaling Coefficient And Refraction Coefficient Calculator

Formula Used:

\[ \text{Wave Height in Deepwater} = \frac{\text{Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves}}{\text{Shoaling Coefficient} \times \text{Refraction Coefficient}} \] \[ H_o = \frac{H_w}{K_s \times K_r} \]

Wave Height in Deepwater (Ho):

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1. What is Deepwater Wave Height?

Wave Height in Deepwater refers to the vertical distance between the trough (lowest point) and the crest (highest point) of a wave when it is far from any influence of the sea floor. It represents the original wave height before being affected by shallow water effects.

2. How Does the Calculator Work?

The calculator uses the formula:

\[ H_o = \frac{H_w}{K_s \times K_r} \]

Where:

\( H_o \) — Wave Height in Deepwater (m)
\( H_w \) — Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves (m)
\( K_s \) — Shoaling Coefficient (dimensionless)
\( K_r \) — Refraction Coefficient (dimensionless)

Explanation: This formula calculates the original wave height in deep water by accounting for the effects of shoaling and refraction that occur as waves move into shallower water.

3. Importance of Deepwater Wave Height Calculation

Details: Calculating deepwater wave height is essential for coastal engineering, wave energy assessment, and understanding wave transformation processes as waves approach the shoreline.

4. Using the Calculator

Tips: Enter wave height in meters, shoaling coefficient, and refraction coefficient. All values must be positive numbers greater than zero.

5. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: What is shoaling coefficient?
A: Shoaling Coefficient is a dimensionless parameter used in wave dynamics to describe how wave height changes as waves move into shallower water.

Q2: What is refraction coefficient?
A: Refraction Coefficient is a parameter that describes how waves change direction as they propagate from deep water into shallower water near the coastline.

Q3: When is this calculation most useful?
A: This calculation is particularly useful in coastal engineering projects, harbor design, and beach erosion studies where understanding wave transformation is crucial.

Q4: Are there limitations to this formula?
A: This formula assumes linear wave theory and may have limitations in extreme wave conditions or complex bathymetry situations.

Q5: What units should be used for input values?
A: Wave height should be in meters, while both coefficients are dimensionless values typically between 0 and 2.