Formula Used:
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Deep-Water Wavelength is the horizontal distance between two successive crests (or troughs) of the wave in deep water conditions where water depth is greater than half the wavelength.
The calculator uses the formula:
Where:
Explanation: This formula calculates the deep-water wavelength based on wave breaking characteristics and beach slope parameters.
Details: Accurate calculation of deep-water wavelength is crucial for coastal engineering, wave energy assessment, and understanding wave transformation processes as waves approach shorelines.
Tips: Enter breaking wave parameter, wave height in meters, and beach slope in radians. All values must be positive numbers greater than zero.
Q1: What is the breaking wave parameter?
A: The breaking wave parameter (ξ) is a dimensionless parameter that characterizes wave breaking conditions based on wave steepness and beach slope.
Q2: How is beach slope measured?
A: Beach slope is typically measured as the angle of inclination from the horizontal, expressed in radians or degrees.
Q3: What are typical values for deep-water wavelength?
A: Deep-water wavelengths can range from a few meters for small waves to hundreds of meters for large ocean swells.
Q4: How does beach slope affect wave breaking?
A: Steeper beach slopes generally cause waves to break in shallower water with more plunging characteristics, while gentler slopes produce more spilling breakers.
Q5: Can this formula be used for all wave conditions?
A: This formula is specifically designed for waves breaking on sloping beaches and may have limitations for very steep or very flat slopes, or for irregular wave conditions.