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Deepwater Wavelength Given Wave Breaking And Wave Height At Breaking Point Calculator

Formula Used:

\[ \lambda_o = \frac{\xi^2 \cdot H_w}{\beta^2} \]

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1. What is Deep-Water Wavelength?

Deep-Water Wavelength is the horizontal distance between two successive crests (or troughs) of the wave in deep water conditions where water depth is greater than half the wavelength.

2. How Does the Calculator Work?

The calculator uses the formula:

\[ \lambda_o = \frac{\xi^2 \cdot H_w}{\beta^2} \]

Where:

Explanation: This formula calculates the deep-water wavelength based on wave breaking characteristics and beach slope parameters.

3. Importance of Deep-Water Wavelength Calculation

Details: Accurate calculation of deep-water wavelength is crucial for coastal engineering, wave energy assessment, and understanding wave transformation processes as waves approach shorelines.

4. Using the Calculator

Tips: Enter breaking wave parameter, wave height in meters, and beach slope in radians. All values must be positive numbers greater than zero.

5. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: What is the breaking wave parameter?
A: The breaking wave parameter (ξ) is a dimensionless parameter that characterizes wave breaking conditions based on wave steepness and beach slope.

Q2: How is beach slope measured?
A: Beach slope is typically measured as the angle of inclination from the horizontal, expressed in radians or degrees.

Q3: What are typical values for deep-water wavelength?
A: Deep-water wavelengths can range from a few meters for small waves to hundreds of meters for large ocean swells.

Q4: How does beach slope affect wave breaking?
A: Steeper beach slopes generally cause waves to break in shallower water with more plunging characteristics, while gentler slopes produce more spilling breakers.

Q5: Can this formula be used for all wave conditions?
A: This formula is specifically designed for waves breaking on sloping beaches and may have limitations for very steep or very flat slopes, or for irregular wave conditions.

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