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Shoaling Coefficient Formula:
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The Shoaling Coefficient is defined as a dimensionless parameter used in the study of wave dynamics, particularly in shallow water wave theory. It quantifies the change in wave height as waves propagate from deep to shallow water.
The calculator uses the Shoaling Coefficient formula:
Where:
Explanation: The formula calculates how wave height changes as waves move into shallower water, accounting for changes in wave speed and energy distribution.
Details: Accurate shoaling coefficient calculation is crucial for coastal engineering, predicting wave transformation in shallow water, designing coastal structures, and understanding sediment transport processes.
Tips: Enter deepwater wave celerity and wave celerity in m/s, and the ratio of group velocity to phase velocity as a dimensionless value. All values must be positive numbers.
Q1: What is deepwater wave celerity?
A: Deepwater Wave Celerity is the speed at which an individual wave advances or propagates occurring or existing in water of great depth.
Q2: How does wave celerity change in shallow water?
A: Wave celerity decreases as water depth decreases, following the relationship C = √(g×d) where g is gravity and d is water depth.
Q3: What is the typical range for shoaling coefficient values?
A: Shoaling coefficient typically ranges from 0.5 to 1.5, with values greater than 1 indicating wave height increase and values less than 1 indicating wave height decrease.
Q4: When is shoaling most significant?
A: Shoaling effects become most significant when waves enter water depths less than half the wavelength, causing noticeable changes in wave characteristics.
Q5: How does shoaling affect wave energy?
A: As waves shoal, their wavelength decreases and wave height increases, concentrating wave energy in a smaller water column which can lead to wave breaking.