Velocity of Propagation Formula:
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The Velocity of Propagation is the speed at which a wave travels through a medium, indicating the rate of energy transfer. In coastal engineering, it represents how quickly wave energy propagates through water of varying depths.
The calculator uses the linear dispersion relation formula:
Where:
Explanation: The formula accounts for wave dispersion in varying water depths, where waves slow down as they approach shallower water.
Details: Accurate velocity calculation is crucial for coastal engineering, wave energy prediction, tsunami modeling, and understanding wave behavior in transitional water depths between deep and shallow water conditions.
Tips: Enter coastal mean depth and deep water wavelength in meters. Both values must be positive numbers greater than zero for accurate calculation.
Q1: What is the difference between phase velocity and group velocity?
A: Phase velocity is the speed at which individual wave crests travel, while group velocity is the speed at which wave energy propagates. This calculator computes phase velocity.
Q2: How does water depth affect wave velocity?
A: In deep water, waves travel faster. As water becomes shallower, wave velocity decreases due to bottom friction and wave dispersion effects.
Q3: What is transitional water depth?
A: Transitional water depth refers to depths where water is neither deep enough for deep water approximations nor shallow enough for shallow water approximations.
Q4: When is the tanh function significant in this calculation?
A: The tanh function becomes significant in transitional water depths where neither deep nor shallow water approximations are fully accurate.
Q5: What are typical velocity ranges for ocean waves?
A: Ocean wave velocities typically range from 5-25 m/s, depending on wavelength and water depth, with longer waves traveling faster than shorter waves.