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Wave Height at Breaking Point Formula:
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The Wave Height at Breaking Point refers to the vertical distance between the trough (bottom) and crest (top) of a wave at the point where it breaks. This measurement is crucial for understanding wave behavior and coastal dynamics.
The calculator uses the formula:
Where:
Explanation: This formula calculates the wave height at the breaking point based on deep-water wavelength, beach slope, and breaking wave characteristics.
Details: Accurate wave height calculation is essential for coastal engineering, beach erosion studies, surf forecasting, and maritime safety. Understanding breaking wave characteristics helps in designing coastal structures and predicting shoreline changes.
Tips: Enter deep-water wavelength in meters, beach slope in radians, and breaking wave parameter. All values must be positive numbers greater than zero for accurate calculation.
Q1: What is deep-water wavelength?
A: Deep-water wavelength is the horizontal distance between two successive wave crests (or troughs) in deep water conditions where water depth is greater than half the wavelength.
Q2: How is beach slope measured?
A: Beach slope is typically measured as the angle of inclination of the beach face, often expressed in radians or degrees, representing the rate of elevation change from the waterline to the upper beach.
Q3: What does the breaking wave parameter represent?
A: The breaking wave parameter (ξ) is a dimensionless number that characterizes wave breaking conditions, taking into account wave steepness and beach slope.
Q4: When is this formula most accurate?
A: This formula provides accurate results for surface gravity waves breaking on gently sloping beaches under typical wave conditions.
Q5: Are there limitations to this equation?
A: The formula may be less accurate for very steep beaches, complex bathymetry, or under extreme wave conditions where other factors influence wave breaking.