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Wave Height at Incipient Breaking refers to the height of the wave at the point where it starts breaking, often referred to as the breaker point. This is a critical parameter in coastal engineering and oceanography.
The calculator uses the formula:
Where:
Explanation: The Breaker Depth Index is the ratio of the wave height at breaking to the water depth at the breakpoint. This formula calculates the wave height where ocean surface waves start to break as they approach the shore.
Details: Accurate wave height calculation at incipient breaking is crucial for coastal engineering, shoreline protection design, navigation safety, and understanding coastal erosion processes.
Tips: Enter the Breaker Depth Index (typically ranges from 0.3 to 1.2) and Water Depth at Breaking in meters. Both values must be positive numbers.
Q1: What is the typical range for Breaker Depth Index?
A: The Breaker Depth Index typically ranges from 0.3 to 1.2, depending on wave climate, beach slope, and wave characteristics.
Q2: How does water depth affect wave breaking?
A: Waves break when the water depth becomes approximately equal to 1.3 times the wave height. Shallower water depths cause waves to break earlier.
Q3: What factors influence the Breaker Depth Index?
A: The Breaker Depth Index depends on wave climate, beach slope, wave period, and bottom topography, making it highly variable.
Q4: Are there different types of wave breaking?
A: Yes, waves can break as spilling breakers, plunging breakers, or surging breakers, each with different characteristics and breaker depth indices.
Q5: How accurate is this calculation for real-world applications?
A: While this formula provides a good estimate, actual wave breaking can be influenced by additional factors such as wind, currents, and complex bathymetry.