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Wave Height Given Cross-Shore Component Calculator

Wave Height Formula:

\[ H = \sqrt{\frac{16 \times S_{xx'}}{3 \times \rho_{water} \times [g] \times d}} \]

N/m
kg/m³
m

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1. What is Wave Height Calculation?

Wave height calculation using the cross-shore component formula determines the height of surface waves based on coastal cross-shore sediment transport, water density, gravitational acceleration, and water depth. This provides valuable information for coastal engineering and marine studies.

2. How Does the Calculator Work?

The calculator uses the wave height formula:

\[ H = \sqrt{\frac{16 \times S_{xx'}}{3 \times \rho_{water} \times [g] \times d}} \]

Where:

Explanation: The formula calculates wave height by considering the balance between wave energy (represented by cross-shore component) and environmental factors including water density and depth.

3. Importance of Wave Height Calculation

Details: Accurate wave height estimation is crucial for coastal engineering projects, navigation safety, beach erosion studies, and offshore structure design. It helps predict wave behavior and its impact on coastal environments.

4. Using the Calculator

Tips: Enter coastal cross-shore component in N/m, water density in kg/m³ (default 1000 for fresh water), and water depth in meters. All values must be positive numbers.

5. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: What is the coastal cross-shore component?
A: The coastal cross-shore component refers to the cumulative movement of beach and nearshore sand perpendicular to the shore by the combined action of tides, wind and waves, measured in Newtons per meter (N/m).

Q2: What water density value should I use?
A: Use 1000 kg/m³ for fresh water and approximately 1025 kg/m³ for sea water. The density varies with temperature and salinity.

Q3: How does water depth affect wave height?
A: Water depth significantly influences wave behavior. In deeper water, waves can travel faster and maintain more energy, while in shallower water, waves slow down and their height changes due to shoaling effects.

Q4: What are typical wave height ranges?
A: Wave heights can range from a few centimeters (ripples) to over 30 meters in extreme storm conditions. Most ocean waves are between 0.5-5 meters in height.

Q5: Are there limitations to this formula?
A: This formula provides an estimation and may not account for all complex wave interactions, especially in very shallow water or during extreme weather conditions where nonlinear effects become significant.

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