Wave Height Given Shoaling Coefficient And Refraction Coefficient Calculator

Formula Used:

\[ H_w = H_o \times K_s \times K_r \]

Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves (Hw):

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1. What is Wave Height Calculation?

Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves refers to the vertical distance between the trough (bottom) and crest (top) of a wave, measured from sea level. It is calculated using the deepwater wave height, shoaling coefficient, and refraction coefficient.

2. How Does the Calculator Work?

The calculator uses the formula:

\[ H_w = H_o \times K_s \times K_r \]

Where:

\( H_w \) — Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves (m)
\( H_o \) — Wave Height in Deepwater (m)
\( K_s \) — Shoaling Coefficient (dimensionless)
\( K_r \) — Refraction Coefficient (dimensionless)

Explanation: The formula calculates the wave height at a specific location by accounting for shoaling (wave height changes due to varying water depth) and refraction (wave direction changes due to varying water depth).

3. Importance of Wave Height Calculation

Details: Accurate wave height calculation is crucial for coastal engineering, navigation safety, beach erosion studies, and offshore structure design. It helps predict wave behavior in shallow water environments.

4. Using the Calculator

Tips: Enter wave height in deepwater (m), shoaling coefficient, and refraction coefficient. All values must be positive numbers greater than zero.

5. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: What is shoaling coefficient?
A: Shoaling coefficient is a dimensionless parameter that describes how wave height changes as waves propagate from deep to shallow water due to changes in water depth.

Q2: What is refraction coefficient?
A: Refraction coefficient is a parameter that describes how waves change direction as they propagate from deep water into shallower water near the coastline due to variations in water depth.

Q3: What are typical values for shoaling coefficient?
A: Shoaling coefficient typically ranges from 0.8 to 1.3, depending on water depth and wave characteristics.

Q4: What are typical values for refraction coefficient?
A: Refraction coefficient typically ranges from 0.7 to 1.0, with values closer to 1.0 indicating less wave refraction.

Q5: When is this calculation most important?
A: This calculation is particularly important in coastal areas where waves transition from deep to shallow water, affecting coastal processes and engineering designs.